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2010 Programs are being scheduled, Please check back often! In the meantime . . some very interesting Reading . . ARTICLE: WHEN SHOULD I CALL THE VET CLICK HERE WHAT YOU DONT NOTICE EVERY DAY CAN KILL YOUR HORSE Since I know that a lot of
beginners do read this blog, today we are going to talk about the
mistakes that really can kill your horse.
1. Turnout in a halter that will
not break – i.e. nylon or rope. If any of you have a stack of Western
Horseman magazines from the 1970s, I need a favor. Can you scan that ad
showing the dead horse hung up on the
fence? They don’t use that ad anymore – I’m sure some parent
sued for their child’s emotional distress – but it’s a damn shame
because it got the message across. I am still, in 2009, reading message
board posts from someone who turned out in a nylon or rope halter and
came back to find a horse hung up with a broken neck. Even a horse who
ties very well may panic when his head gets trapped unexpectedly. This
can happen when he’s scratching an itchy spot on a t-post or something
like a piece of loose metal on the barn (of course, that shouldn’t be there
either). Some horses will even catch a back foot in their halter as
they scratch themselves, and you can imagine the injuries that result.
The solution is simple – either turn out with no halter (this is always
the safest and if you can’t catch your horse, you have something to
work on, don’t you?) or turn out with a breakaway
halter.
A related problem – tying too long. When your horse is tied, a loop of lead rope that hangs down to your horse’s knee or further is absolutely too long. If the horse paws and hangs himself up, you’re likely to see a panicky episode that will scare you to death and can very well result in a severe injury to both the horse and any human who tries to free him. Tie with no more than 2-3 feet of rope between the horse’s nose and the tie rail or ring, tie with a quick release knot, and make sure you pull on the lead and check it before you walk off to ensure that the horse can’t get a few more feet of slack free with the first tug. This is particularly important when tying to the side of the trailer at a trail ride or other event – I always see horses with so much slack in the lead that it scares me. Tie high and short and keep hay nets high and short as well – nothing at leg level. Not ever. Don’t even get me started on “staking out” – yeah, I know there are .0005% of the horses in the world that someone has trained to do this and they’re just fine, but most of the time, it is a train wreck waiting to happen. Don’t do it. 2. Uncapped t-posts and other unsafe fencing. Your realtor is most likely NOT a horse expert. Every day, I see properties full of barbed wire and uncapped t-posts marketed as “turn-key horse farms.” While there’s a fairly easy and cheap fix – capping the posts and replacing the barbed wire with another form of fencing like electric rope or tape – beginners are often told “oh, it will be fine.” Look, I could publish gory pictures all day showing that it may not be fine. And while it’s true that horses hurt themselves on other kinds of fence, it’s simply not as common and the injuries are rarely as severe as the injuries from barbs that dig in and tear the flash. With regard to capping t-posts, I once almost lost a horse myself because I failed to do that. A horse who tries to jump out can impale himself on the top of an uncapped t-post, and a horse who is scratching may cut himself. Mine cut herself on the underside of her face, right between the cheekbones and right into her jugular vein. T-post caps are cheap and they slip right on. Go pick some up if you haven’t already.
3. Pasture obstacles. Horses are
not, no matter what anybody tells you, “smart enough” to stay away from
tractors, old cars, playground equipment, loose sheet metal, sinkholes
and other pasture hazards. If there is a means of self-destruction in
their turnout area, they are likely to find and use it. It is important
to go out and physically walk your pastures looking for hazards before
you ever put a horse out there. I’ve seen old farms where coils of old,
rusty barbed wire hid in the weeds. A few years ago, there was a
much-publicized case where a beautiful warmblood stallion fell into an
old well on a property and broke his neck. You can read several cases
on Netposse where the horse was found on
the owner’s property stuck in a sinkhole or something similar. I’ve
also seen cases where erosion has taken back the edge of a ditch to
where the horse can fall in without ever getting outside of the fence. I’ve seen horses kill themselves on
things like a rough piece of sheet metal coming off the back of a shed,
a support cable for a telephone post, farm equipment that was parked in
the pasture for just a day, and the list goes on. If you can’t
immediately remove a hazard, shield it from the horses using a few corral panels.
These are a quick way to build a barrier around something like an old
well, a collapsed building, or some metal pipe to nowhere sticking up
out of the ground.
4. Grass can kill your horse. To
make a long explanation short, the sunny and warm days of spring raise
the sugar content of grass pasture. This can render grass dangerous to
eat – the sugars upset the normal balance in the horse’s digestive
tract, resulting in toxins which lead to founder, aka laminitis.
Founder is without a doubt one of the worst things that can happen to
your horse. In its most severe form, the hooves are so badly affected
that the horse must be euthanized. Even in milder forms, it is a
management issue and the horse may require a lengthy rehab period,
expensive special shoeing, and to be “dry lotted” – kept in a dirt
field with no grass – the rest of his life. The classic situation is a beginner who purchases
a horse from a boarding barn where it has only gone out in dirt
paddocks, brings it home to the idyllic farm they just purchased and
puts it out on lush green pasture. The horse looks happy – heck, the
horse looks ecstatic – but
days later it can hardly walk and by the end of the week, it is dead.
Rule number one: Horses do not know
what is good for them. They can also founder after getting into
the grain – your grain should be kept in a locked room or a spare stall
where a loose horse at 3 AM cannot get to it. If you purchase a horse
who hasn’t been out on grass, introduce him to it slowly. Start with 15
minutes of grazing and then back into the stall/dirt paddock he goes.
Work up by increasing the time a little bit daily until the horse it
out 24/7 if that’s what you desire. He won’t like coming back in – but
you’ll save yourself a four-figure vet bill and a lot of heartbreak.
Another option is a grazing
muzzle, which allows the horse to be turned out with the herd and
drink but keeps his grass consumption to a minimum. If you’ve purchased
a previously foundered horse (your vet can tell you), fencing in a dirt
paddock is probably your safest bet.
FYI, grass clippings from the lawn
are never safe for horses. They start to ferment almost immediately in
a bag or pile. Hand-picking grass for your paddock kept horse is fine,
but the leftover from the mower belongs in the trash heap.
5.
Other horses can kill your horse.
Some boarding barns are just not very smart about turnout. While a
certain amount of roughhousing, nipping and the occasional kick is
normal in a herd of horses, you will occasionally see a horse who is
truly aggressive. He continually runs at other horses, ears pinned,
teeth bared. He will start chasing another horse and it won’t end after
three strides (that’s normal herd behavior – the chase ends when the
submissive horse runs away) – he will chase that horse for laps around
the pasture. This horse can kill your horse. This is how horses get so
panicked that they do try to jump out of the fence. They can get
cornered in a run-in shed or fence corner by a horse like this and
kicked so severely they have to be euthanized. Absolutely do not allow
your horse to be turned out with a horse like this, even if he does not
seem to be the focus of the horse’s aggression. It’s much better that
your horse go out in a small paddock by himself.
No, you don’t want to be the overprotective horse parent who has hysterics over a tiny nip mark, but if you’ve ever seen a truly aggressive horse like this in action, you know what I mean. You are the paying customer at a boarding barn, and you do have the right to demand your horse be kept as safe as possible – please don’t back down because someone scoffs at you and tries to make you feel like a stupid beginner. If you are going to make mistakes, erring on the side of caution is always best!
PLEASE TAKE
NOTE!!!
FREE Educational Seminars
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Horse
Owners and OUR
CURRENT GOOD NEIGHBOR PROGRAMS HAVE ALREADY HELPED NUMEROUS HORSE
OWNERS IN
THE BATTLE OF THE BARNS IS COMING SOON
was a Success with over 70 people showing up for the seminar. Maureen Cleveland put this together in conjunction with Doc Weekley and we sincerely appreciate it. Below is a link for the information that was presented. We hope you will print out a copy and put it with your first aid kit. DOWNLOAD PDF INFORMATION HERE
"How to prepare for Hurricanes
Afterward, the
presentation by the University of Florida was excellent. A
question and answer period followed and
questionaires were filled out asking about what YOU would like to have for our next presentation. Soooo . . . Stay tuned to this horsey channel for updates . . . .
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